Just recently went on a trip to a part of Japan that is referred to as 'the inland sea'. This is the Chugoku region where Hiroshima and also Miyajima are located. It was a great trip and so much to tell and so many photos i decided to split up into 2 parts. This post is about Hiroshima.
Hiroshima is bustling modern city of over 1,100,000 people. Its located towards the western/central part of the main island of Honshu and is perhaps a bit more temperate than Tokyo. Hiroshima's main character consists of its waterways, shopping districts, specialty foods, old-fashioned trolleys, and of course the legacy of the atomic bomb.
The main shopping area (and has been since long ago) is called Hondori Street. Cafes, restaurants, clothing, electronics, and just about anything can be found there. Trolleys are an inexpensive and convenient way to get around (can go anywhere in the city for about 150yen) but I pretty much walked most of the time. Near Hondori is a special section called Okonomiya Village and has many different varieties of the local speciality known as Okonomiyaki. It's sometimes referred to Japanese pizza (its not at all like pizza, but the variety and creativity is similar). It's essentially a type of pancake made with egg, cabbage, soba noodles and meat (or fish). It is grilled in layers on a hot plate in front of you with okonomiyaki sauce and options that can include mayonnaise, pickled ginger and seaweed. I had mine with soba, raw scallops and octopus (yum!). Hiroshima is also famous for fresh 'kaki' (oysters).
My first stop right from the station was a famous park called 'Shukkei-en". For its rather small size, the variety of of sub-gardens make it seem much larger. Its packed with narrow winding walkways and tiny bridges, scenic views plus lots of wildlife. Its very well maintained and nice spot to just chill out and relax while seeing some great garden design.
Near the garden is Hiroshima castle. It was really interesting to see how castles are designed and the museum inside is full of info on just this. There are many swords and armor on display and a great view from the top. You get the sense how this was really a feudal town long ago.
Of course what draws the most visitors and most attention from the world is Hiroshima's legacy as the first city destroyed by an atomic bomb. I wanted to see the history for myself and learn about what happened exactly. I must say it was quite intense and very, very moving. Through audio visual materials, photos, movies, and actual relics from the time of the bomb, its almost as if you are transported back in time to the day of Aug 6th, 1945. I wont go into detail about what is on display at the museum because I feel words fail to convey the impact, so I encourage anyone who comes to Japan to visit and see for themselves the destruction that an atomic bomb can do. Reading the stories from survivors of their first hand accounts of what they saw and losing family members right before their eyes was really heartwrenching.
Brief factual history on the event: At 8:15 am, the US detonated the bomb about 500 meters above the city. It is estimated that 140,000 people were killed in the explosion and its aftermath. The entire city was destroyed. Uncontrollable and wide-spread fires, people trapped under fallen buildings, and inadequate medical attention account for most of the deaths. The survivors, known as hibakusha, were subjected not only to radiation-related diseases but severe discrimination from other Japanese. Many of them died many years later due to complications from radiation.
One of the most famous buildings of course the 'genbaku domu' (atomic dome). This building was at the epicenter of the blast, directly below in fact, and since the blast at that point was mainly downward (as opposed to lateral which is what destroyed most of the city) the walls were spared and the building left standing. Its truly an eerie reminder of history and an important one. The memorial on the right side of the above photo is the Cenotaph for A-bomb Victims and contains the names of all 140,000 victims. Under the arch is a flame which, it is said, will not be extinguished until the last nuclear weapons are gone from the earth.
Featured above are the Peace Bell and also the Children's Memorial to the bomb. The glass boxes contain thousands of origami paper cranes, folded by schoolchildren across Japan in memory of bomb victim Sadako Sasaki. Dying of leukemia in 1954, she was told an old folk tale by her mom that anybody who folds over 1000 cranes will have her wish come true; she had folded a total of 1,300 cranes before her death in 1955 at the age of twelve.
Obviously it was a pretty grim day visiting and seeing all these things. But as I sat in the park after the museum, watching the children playing and running around, seeing a thriving city full of life and activity, I felt a sense of inspiration and marvel. From nothing, literally nothing, this city was completely rebuilt by the incalculable effort and spirit of the people is just a miracle, I think. I will never forget that trip.
Up next: Miyajima: island of the Gods
