There are 3 main areas to visit if you go to the Ise area: Ise, Toba, and Ise Shima. I planned to just visit Toba and Ise since there was plenty to see in both those spots in just 2 days. This entry will be about my time in Toba. The picture above is of the "meoto-iwa" or 'wedded rocks' as they are known as in the nearby town of Futami. Joined by a thick rope, they are said to represent the founding gods of Shinto, Izanagi and Izanami according to Japanese mythology.
Toba is mostly a bayfront resort-area, dotted with small, nearby islands in Toba bay. There are ferries that visit the islands throughout the day and are reachable within 20 to 50 minutes. Mostly they are fishing islands with some very remote parts, undisturbed nature, and unique festivals. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to visit any due to weather and time constraints, but maybe next time. In the picture above you can see one of the islands, Sugashima in the background and to the right is the Mikomoto Pearl Island where i did make a short visit.
Kokichi Mikomoto invented the cultured pearl process in the late 19th century and much of the fame of Toba comes from this heritage. On the island there is a museum showing the technique he invented, antique pearl jewelry, pearls for sale (of course) and even an all-pearl replica of the Liberty Bell that was created for the 1939 World's Fair in New York. I'm not so crazy about pearls, but it was interesting none the less to learn about it.
One cool thing they had was a show featuring "ama", who are women oyster divers. Before the cultured pearl process/pearl farming, the white-suited ama would dive and, just by holding their breath, search the floor of the bay for oysters and bring them to the surface. You can see an ama diver in the picture above, 2nd from the right. They can really hold their breath a long time, trust me! :P
I also visited another attraction which is close to Mikomoto, the Toba Aquarium. It was interesting and really huge with lots of displays. For me though, aquariums are like 'if you've seen one, you've seen them all', so I didn't spend loads of time there. Plus there were screaming kids everywhere so I had to get out of there :P. Good for a family trip, for sure and lots to see. Now, on to a more interesting attraction Toba has to offer...SEAFOOD! : ) : ) : )
Toba is really a small town and like most resort areas, the local people take life easy and more slowly, especially compared to a hectic-paced, open 24-hour place like Tokyo. That means restaurants closed early (like 7 or 8) and I had a lot of ground to cover, so no time to waste! With the help of a map (and some recommendations by the hotel staff), I thought it might be fun to do a little 'tabearuki', or walking around and just sampling a few things from each place. Basically the thing to get in Toba is grilled shellfish. The area's most famous dishes are Ise-ebi (spiny lobster), awabi (abalone), and tekonezushi (vinegar soaked rice with katsuo sashimi and nori).
As you can see by the picture above, I hit a few spots and went for their recommended seafood platter with a cold beer (or two). For the freshness and quantity of shellfish you receive, the price is absurdly low. I couldn't let such a bargain go to waste, so let's just say it was a good night for the restaurant/bar owners on that street...lol.
In the pic above on the far left is a tiny bar called Kyubei , where I spent a few enjoyable hours and was typical of most of the places I visited that night. The owner/chef and his wife really welcomed me, as well as the local regulars, and were very curious to know about gaijin visitors to their small town, let alone Japan (see pic below). Although no one spoke any English, I got by OK with my Japanese and we had some nice conversations and warm exchanges over cold beers and shared food. Incredibly, I had similar experiences in almost every place I went. That kind of small town friendliness, you just don't find in big cities and it was a nice change.
Also my stay the Toba International Hotel was just great. Fantastic service, friendly and helpful staff, food, great views ... 4 stars all across the board, so I highly recommend it for anyone who makes a trip to this region.
Up next: Ise Shrine
